Ouch! The cat just bit me! And all I was doing was petting her. Aggression is not an uncommon emotion in cats, and can be displayed both adults and kittens. This is why all pet owners should know how to handle their cat’s aggression. Alpha cats are (the top cats in the pack displaying leadership qualities) should be given special consideration.

These cats use aggression to obtain certain benefits for themselves in preference to other cats. They can turn aggressive over toys, baths, food, space, and the attention another cat might be getting from the owner.

Cats may use aggression as a way to stop something they deem unpleasant. For instance, an alpha cat may jump onto your lap when it wishes to be petted and then bite and scratch when it wants you to stop. This phenomenon is termed petting-induced aggression. It is common in cats that have a low threshold for physical affection. This is also a way that aggressive cats show who is in control.

Surprisingly, kittens can also show a high degree of aggression. Aggression in kittens is a normal biological response termed play-aggression. It is an built-in drive to play rough. Play-aggression usually occurs when your kitten starts growing up and needs to practice its survival instincts. It is, fortunately, a phase that most kittens outgrow.

It is important that you deal with aggression in a firm manner. If, when you are petting it on your lap, an alpha cat bites you, you should make show your disapproval by not allowing it on your lap for a few days. When you do allow it to sit on your lap again, ensure that you are in charge of petting activity. You must initiate and conclude the petting session. After a few days, the cat will learn to accept your role as its owner and may learn to be more patient.

In the case of an aggressive kitten, it is you who needs to be patient. Learn to read your cat’s body language so that you do not give it a chance to attack you. You could also get another kitten as a playmate. This gives your cat an outlet for its play.

Learning more about your cat and taking control of its aggression don’t just benefit you, the owner. They also allow the cat to live a happier less stressful life.

About the Author: Barbara Anderson writes for several online magazines, on family and home topics.

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=88366&ca=Pets

Read this article: Handling Aggression In Cats

Dear Mr. Katz:

I have a 4 month old female pup, AmStaff/Boxer (we think – she was a rescue). She responds well to all training, EXCEPT for walking and heeling.

We’ve practiced the loose-leash “turning on a dime” technique described in your book and audio tape at length, but she refuses to cooperate.

[See http://www.dogproblems.com/secretsbook.htm]

It’s not a matter of distraction – when I attempt to train her in this style, she pulls back with all her strength. When the loose leash is snapped, she sits, paws braced, or lays down on her back. These responses are immediate.

I’ve tried instantly righting her, and continuing the training, but she responds as above just as quickly. This can go on indefinitely. I’ve tried correcting her with a low “No,” and praising her if she responds correctly for even an instant. I’ve tried using treats to get her to at least walk with me briefly…… all to no success.

What else should I try?

Thanks,

Geoff

Dear Geoff,

It’s a good question you’ve asked.

First, you DO NOT want to work the dog around distractions at this point in the game.

Second, you should not be telling the dog, “No!” and jerking the leash for this behavior. Instead, you need to simply glue the leash to your belt and keep walking.

Now here’s where your problem will arise: You’ve already inadvertently taught your dog that if she kicks and screams long enough (or rolls on her back and throws a tantrum)… that eventually you will stop walking and come to see what’s wrong.

The only problem is… NOTHING IS WRONG!

It’s like if I take you in a helicopter and drop you off in the middle of the desert and tell you that I’m going to leave you there, but will eventually come back and pick you up in half an hour (or 2 hours, or a whole day!!!) … you will simply sit there and not attempt to remedy your situation, as you know that I’m coming back to pick you up. Eventually, this situation will end and I’ll come back and your problems will be over.

However, if I instead drop you off in the middle of the desert and tell you that I’m never coming back… then all of the sudden you’re in a position where you MUST START TRYING DIFFERENT THINGS TO BETTER YOUR SITUATION.

Maybe you start to look for some twigs you can start a smoke fire with, to draw the attention of an airplane overhead.

Or perhaps you climb on top of a rock, to look for a nearby highway so that you can hitch hike to a nearby pay phone.

But the point is… you start actively looking for a solution because you IMMEDIATELY REALIZE THAT YOUR SITUATION WILL NOT SIMPLY END BY ITSELF.

And this is the same thing you need to teach your dog. And it’s a lesson that will extend beyond this one exercise. Your dog must learn that just because she does not want to do something DOES NOT mean that you will give in and let her not do the exercise.

BECAUSE THIS CREATES A SPOILED DOG.

So… what should you do? The answer is really quite simple. Just keep walking. No matter how much the dog kicks and screams and throws a tantrum, remember: You’re not asking her to do anything she cannot do if she chooses. We’re asking her to SIMPLY WALK WITH YOU.

Now, in light of everything you’ve already taught her (remember, every action you do teaches your dog something)… you may have to keep walking a quarter of a mile before she finally realizes that you’re not stopping and that it’s easier to walk alongside you than it is to be dragged on her rump.

Trust me… it won’t be a pretty scene for your neighbors to look out their window and see you dragging your dog on her rump down the street.

But when you will be able to take that same dog out for a casual stroll later that evening, your neighbors will wonder if you didn’t trade your dog in for a different one and will gasp at how well she walks alongside you on the leash.

That’s all for now, folks!

Adam

Dogproblems.com

About the Author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider’s Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History.” Get a free copy of his report “Games To Play With Your Dog” when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=51023&ca=Pets

The rest is here: Dog Too Spoiled To Walk On Leash

There are many different techniques you can use to train your dog, and it is important to find one that works for you and your family in order to have the most loyal and well-behaved pet possible. All successful styles of dog training emphasize the bond between dog and owner, and the basis of a successful training program is earning the dog’s respect. It is fortunate that dogs are innately programmed to submit to a leader, it allows them to follow commands and make training easier.

This article will discuss on of the more common types of dog training –leash/collar training. Other articles will examine other common dog-training techniques, known as reward training or positive reinforcement.

Both the leash/collar styles of dog training and reward-based dog training have been proven to be effective methods of dog training over time. The method of training that is most effective is dependent on the dog’s breed and his temperament. Each dog has its own personality, which is emphasized even further by many years of selective breeding.

The personalities of individual dogs can be very different, even within the same breed. It is up to you, as the owner, to determine which method of training will work best for your dog, so it is important to work with the trainer in order to attain your goal of an eager, well-trained and friendly dog.

Leash/collar training is the best way to fulfill many factions of dog training, especially in circumstances where the dog must be very dependable. For example, certain working dogs, such as police dogs, rescue dogs or guard dogs, tend to gain from leash and collar training.

In leash/collar training, different levels of force can be used, varying from light modifications with the lead to firmer corrections. The level of correction used should be relative to the situation, as too much correction, or not enough, can prove unproductive.

In a leash/collar emphasized dog-training program, the dog is first taught a desired behavior on the leash. Once the dog seems to understand the command, the leash is then used to modify incorrect behaviors. The leash is used as the main form of control and communication with the dog in this form of training.

With leash/collar training, the dog must learn to trust the handler and follow commands without any hesitation. The dog is considered fully trained when the handler is able to show that the dog will follow a command even if he does not want to. While this does not mean using brute force, it will likely necessitate some physical handling. This type of handling is most effectively completed by use of the leash.

Anyone attempting to train his or her dog should understand that the leash is merely a device. While the leash is necessary for this style of dog training, it is important for the dog trainer to strive for the same results using whatever gear are nearby.

No matter what device the owner uses for training, such as the owner’s body and voice, the dog should be eager to comply. Building a trusting relationship between owner and dog is vital, and it is important that the leash is used as a tool rather than a crutch. A properly trained dog should be eager to obey with or without a leash.

About the Author: To learn more about dog training visit http://www.discoverdogtraining.info

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=45035&ca=Pets

View post: Training Your Dog To Use A Leash And Collar

Dear Adam:

I am writing about our dog Rudy, a three year old goldie mix that we adopted five months ago from a shelter. We have received different opinions on his mix. Some have said goldie/shepherd, some have said goldie/chow. The latter is the opinion of the [local dog training academy], where he is presently enrolled in their one-month board and train program. We enrolled him because one month ago he attacked a jogger. The jogger was running by my husband, who had Rudy in a sit on a slack leash. The jogger changed direction quickly, running straight toward Derek and Rudy. Rudy lunged at the jogger, jumped up on him, barking and growling aggressively.

He tore the man’s jacket by nipping at it, but he did not bite the jogger.

[You weren't paying attention to your dog. If you were, you'd have already been running the other direction to execute the "attention getter" drill as outlined in the book. -Editor]

The only other time he had displayed such aggressive behavior was toward a UPS driver coming up the driveway, but he was well under control that time.

He has a very strong prey drive and dominant personality. He had been doing very well these past three weeks at the Academy. They were not able to elicit any aggressive behavior from him, and his obedience training was going well. But last Thursday, he bit a trainer. He apparently was being put back into his kennel and ran off down a long hallway. He was not leashed. When he got to the dead end, he first went submissive, rolling over on his back. The trainer then reached to grab his collar and Rudy gave her hand a good bite. She then reached for the collar with her other hand, and he did the same to that hand. He did not give her any warning growl or snap. He did not move forward toward her, just reacted to her reach toward him. After the second bite she backed off, and another trainer was able to coax Rudy to go back with her uneventfully.

I have read your book and believe that the trainer bite was an example of fear aggression? (I don’t know what to think about the jogger, though.) The Academy seems to be saying that they can’t train that reaction out of him; that we will just need to be vigilant and mindful of his triggers. That goes without saying, and I now believe that being cornered is one of his triggers. (Our vet had also mentioned that when they cornered him to get him on a table, that he had snapped out at them.) But your book and tapes led me to believe that you can train such behavior out of a dog. Or am I misunderstanding? Are you merely just getting the dog to react to you instead of following his instinctual reaction? Certainly that’s a good thing, but what if he’s with someone else when he’s triggered?

We need some perspective on this situation. I love him and want to give him every chance to learn correct behaviors. But on the other hand, we live in a dense children and jogger packed neighborhood. We can’t keep him if there is reasonable risk of this kind of thing happening again.

Mary Ellen

Dear Mary Ellen:

Thank you for the e-mail.

You’ve got a couple of things to consider:

1. The dog needs to be firmly corrected lunging. Going after the biker is a prey-based aggression. Correct him for this, as described in the book.

2. Going after the trainer and the veterinarian is the result of the dog being insecure and not trusting the handler. Usually in these types of cases, he will not bite if he is secure that you will not hurt him. Or if he knows that he will only be fairly corrected for behavior that he understands.

With aggressive behavior, we can never say 100% “All” or “Never” that your dog will or will not show a specific behavior.

Regardless, your dog needs to be corrected for such behavior, and then shown that if he is calm, he gets praise and nothing bad happens to him. This can sometimes be achieved by placing the dog in such positions while he is wearing a muzzle. He cannot bite you, and ultimately learns that everything ends up “A-Okay.”

It is a process of deconditioning. Not so for the prey-aggression, which can be fixed with a couple of well-timed and motivational corrections.

That’s all for now, folks!

Adam

Dogproblems.com

About the Author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider’s Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History.” Get a free copy of his report “Games To Play With Your Dog” when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=51027&ca=Pets

Read the original: Her Dog Shows Two Different Types Of Aggression

Dogs, especially those of a certain breed, get really aggressive if they aren’t trained when they are young, or when they are brought home. While dogs can be the best and most loved pets that a pet owner can have, they can also become quite savage or unruly if they aren’t socialized to fit in with humans. They may have many human characteristics that make them loveable, but people have to remember that they are animals first and foremost.

If the dogs aren’t socialized properly, then they will exhibit behaviors that will lead to them being sent to animal shelters or euthanized. This is a heartbreaking event and oftentimes, it is one that can be avoided when a smart and responsible pet owner does their part to make sure that the pet is broken of their aggressive tendencies.

The dog is born into packs. Along with this, they are designed to establish themselves as the alpha, or the leader of the pack. It’s fine to have a confident and an independent dog. But much like children, if a dog is left to its own devices, then it will turn on you, and the dog will think that you are the underling, and that they are the alpha.

An untrained dog proves it’s the alpha by biting, barking in a harassing manner, snapping, and growling. These are all behaviors to intimidate you, and others. They will also become very territorial of their items such as the bed, or the feeding dish. In advanced cases, they will become territorial of your belongings and territories, such as your chair, or your bedroom.

You have to work very closely with a professional dog trainer, especially if you have adopted an adult dog, or an abused dog. The dog might even need behavior modification. The most important thing is that you have to be very firm and sharp when training your dog out of aggression. From the first time that they test you, you have to show them who the boss is.

A dog with aggressive behavior must be dealt with swiftly, and firmly. The alternative is that the dog won’t be able to be part of your family, and might end up back in a shelter. This causes pain for both your family and the dog.

Certain types of dogs need aggression breaking for certain reasons. For example, toy dogs such as poodles and Chihuahuas can exhibit aggression by yelping, yipping, and biting. These dogs aren’t a huge danger, in as much as they are annoying. Chihuahuas in particular can be very mean and aggressive. They will chase people around. On the other end of the spectrum, there are large dogs such as German Shepherds and Rottweiler’s which can be quite dangerous if they have aggression issues. There sheer weight can cause a human to be knocked down on the ground. They have large fangs and powerful jaws. Grave harm can come to the person who sets off one of these dogs. While these are qualities that make these breeds excellent guard dogs, these qualities can be dangerous to have around families and the general public.

Again, the best thing is to seek out the assistance of a professional that can help to break your dog of these issues and to help your dog fit into society.

About the Author: For more info, visit ohmydogsupplies – home to unique dog supplies like dog coats winter, dog clothes, and other dog gear that you’ll never find at your local pet store.

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=833373&ca=Pets

Read the original: Issues With Dog Aggression

Leashes are made up of cotton, nylon and leather. It is better to use leather leash for your dog as your dog can easily tare into pieces cotton leashes. Nylon leashes can slip from your hands easily and your dog can run away and may affect anyone including you too. Therefore, leather leashes are the best as they neither slip from your hands soon nor your dog can tare them into pieces within minutes. During dog leash training, a dog is taught to make a habit of having a leash on its neck.

When the dog wears first time leash on its neck in the beginning of dog leash training, every single dog does not like leash and wants to get rid of it but as time passes, your dog does not feel irritation when it sees leash on its neck. All dogs seize the leash when they wear it in the beginning, you should not stop your dog or beat it when it seizes its leash but let it seizing its leash. It is necessary for making successful dog leash training because when your dog touches the leash, it comes to know that this leash does not affect it when it touches it and does not cause pain. Your dog will soon leave the habit of seizing the leash in this way and that is what you want to see during dog leash training.

Always tide loosely the leash on your dog’s neck. It is necessary to tide loosely the leash on your dog’s neck as if you are not around your dog and your dog tides more its tight leash, it may result in the suffocation and your dog leash training will surely end but the result will not be the positive and according to your desires. Do not tie too much loosely the leash as in this case, your dog can take the leash inside its foot and the result will be once again the suffocation. Therefore, you should always be careful about tying the leash on your dog’s neck during dog leash training. Neither tie it too loose nor too tight. Tide the leash in such a way that the leash may not affect your dog even in your absence.

If you want to cut out the habit of seizing from your dog, never stop your dog when it seizes the leash as if your dog is stubborn, it will never stop seizing the leash but will seize it more. Therefore, let it seize and as time goes by, it will automatically stop seizing it. Another method of cutting out the habit of the seizing from your dog is that you should never catch tightly the leash when you take your dog anywhere with you as when your dog feels pain or irritation on its neck due to the leash, it will try to get rid of it permanently instead of developing the habit of having the leash permanently on its neck during dog leash training.

About the Author: Andy Ayres is a dog training specialist and helps dog owners solve problems with their pets. If you want to stop your dog’s excessive barking then learn how a bark collar can help or look here for the most popular bark collars.

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=272607&ca=Pets

Read more: How to Do Dog Leash Training

A dog owner needs to purchase a dog leash and collar, which will enable them to take the dog to the veterinarian, go on walks, and provide identifying information, as well as carry the dog’s license. A dog is able to wear a collar and walk on a leash when it is eight weeks old. Owners should fit the dog with a collar before attempting to use a leash. There is no specific time frame that lets an owner know when a puppy is used to the collar; the dog will stop ‘checking’ or pulling at the collar. After the dog is comfortable with the collar, the owner should buy a dog leash and the leash can be introduced. Note that a choke collar is never to be used with puppies.

Leashes are available at pet stores, grocery stores, on the internet, at the vet’s, and at other retailers. A pet store is the best source for buying a dog leash because the staff can answer questions regarding the type of leash needed, and pet stores carry a wider variety of leashes than most other outlets. A dog owner who is buying the first leash for a dog should tell the pet store staff the following information about the dog:

• Breed – Pure bred or mixed breed

• Weight – The most recently weight obtained from the veterinarian

• Height – Measured from the ground to the top of the head

• Demeanor – How the dog responded to a collar

Ideally, the dog should be brought to the pet store so the staff can actually see the dog and make sure that the leash is the proper size and does not harm the dog in any way. Stores such as PetSmart allow animals inside the store, and staff members are known to be very knowledgeable about the store’s products.

There are countless leashes currently being sold to pet owners. They vary in length, function, and material. Animal trainers are excellent sources of information about animal products. They recommend that a leash be sturdy, approximately six feet in length, and made of leather, nylon, or chain. A quality leash will match the dog’s breed, age, and size; also, it will not chafe the animal’s skin or cut the dog’s fur. The owner should periodically check the leash for tearing, fraying, and overall wear.

An alternative to the traditional “lead”-type of leash is the retractable leash. This type of leash provides variable distances in which the dog can travel while “on leash”. The owner can keep a dog within close range or let the animal travel several feet ahead or behind. A retractable leash is not recommended for puppies or very small dogs because the potential for harm is greater. They may dash in front of a car or get into a dangerous situation.

Frequently, a dog owner will allow a child to take the family dog for a walk using a leash. The child should be taught how to properly walk the dog. The child should know how far to walk the dog, where the dog can or cannot be walked, and how to care for the dog while taking it for a walk. A large dog may not be controllable by a child. The owner must carefully assess whether a child is capable of controlling the dog.

Buying an age/breed appropriate dog leash will help a dog owner to properly and safely care for a pet when going for a walk, to the veterinarian’s, or traveling away from home.

About the Author: David Beart is owner of the Professors House, a site dedicated to family, relationships, dog training, and household issues.

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=200904&ca=Pets

The rest is here: Buying A Dog Leash

Handling aggression is a challenge but it something that sometimes we have to do. It is almost natural to respond by being aggressive back. You see, when someone is aggressive towards you, your emotions are pricked and it is easy to start expressing what you feel, not necessarily what you think.

When you respond to aggression by being aggressive, you are not going to diffuse the other’s person anger or solve the problem that had caused the aggressive behavior. You may out shout him and silence him but the problem will remain and will come around again in the future. What’s more is that your peace of mind is also disturbed.

The best way to handle aggression is to be assertive. But first, before you say or do anything else, count to ten and then:

1. Ask in a calm manner what is troubling the aggressor. Be clear and try to collect as much information as possible. If you cannot get any word in, let the aggressor get it out of his system. Be aware of your own body language and remember you have the right to leave the room until things cool down.

2. State clearly the position as you see it. Again in a calm manner, tell the aggressor where you stand on the issue.

3. Empathize with aggressor. Explain that you can see it from their point of view but firmly and clearly tell them the difference between what they believe and the way you feel what was actually happening. Keep your focus on what they are saying, not the way they are saying it.

4. Use diversion. Sometimes physically changing the way you sit or even asking in a calm collected voice the aggressor to sit down can take the heat of the situation. A little pause before you say anything can also help. Something changing the subject a little can also diffuse the aggressor’s anger.

5. Offer a range of solutions. This shows the aggressor that you interested in solving the issue that has disturbed him.

6. Try to lighten the situation. This is often quite difficult to do and risky. Gauge the situation, wait for the right moment to use humor. Do not use this technique when the heat is still high.

7. If aggressive behavior still persists, indicate your own beliefs and feelings. However do not cut them short. Let them talk out of being aggressive.

8. If all fails, suggest to the aggressor a cooling down period and that both of you can talk again after that.

It is important that you recognize that you cannot aggression by being passive or you losing your temper. Being assertive and in control of your own emotions is crucial. This is often difficult to do as aggressive behaviors are deemed as a threat by the body and our “fight or flight” response is activated. It is important that you are aware of your feelings at all times and keep yourself checked.

It is important that you comment about the aggressor’s position, i.e. “if you do not stop shouting at me, it will be difficult to answer your questions”. Also appeal to their past good behaviors.

About the Author: A. Majid is interested in reaching his full potential and helping other to do the same. For more resources on self help tools, visit Self Help 101.

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=597947&ca=Self Help

Original post: How to Handle Aggression

The sight of a human and dog walking harmoniously down the sidewalk, leash loose as if entirely unnecessary, sparks envy in many dog owners who dare to dream of such behavior from their own pets. What this perfect picture does not show, however, is the amount of time, effort, and training that went into teaching the animal how to comfortably walk on leash. Although it is not a natural occurrence for a dog to walk on leash, it is required in many cities, as well as veterinarian offices, and the sooner you begin leash training your dog, the sooner you and your dog will be that perfect picture!

Ideally, the time to begin leash training is around eight weeks of age. At this point, your puppy is mature enough to learn basic commands, like come or let’s go. If your dog is past this age, do not worry. Even an older dog can be taught to walk on leash, but it may take a bit more effort on your part as his bad ‘on leash’ behavior may be quite engrained. To prepare your animal for the leash, first get him used to wearing a collar. Put the collar on for short periods of time at first, and try to distract your dog from biting or trying to remove it. Do not remove the collar when he is actively fighting it; only remove the collar when he is calm and tolerant. Once he is used to the collar, add the leash. Allow him to eat or play (supervised by you) with the leash on so that he can associate it with fun activities. A six foot nylon, non-extendable leash works best.

The key to beginning leash training is getting your dog to come to you when called. Using treats is perfectly acceptable, but be sure to praise as well. You can even begin in your own backyard; have your dog wear collar and leash, and let him walk freely through the yard. Call him to come close to you, and when he does, give him a treat. Hang onto another treat, show it to him, and have him follow you for a short distance. After a minute, give him the treat. You should be able to gradually increase the amount of time the pup follows you, and he learns that following you and paying attention equals treats and praise.

When you are ready to take your dog or puppy out of the backyard, arm yourself with motivation (food). The first few walks should be short, and remember that until your dog learns to walk without pulling, each and every walk is a training session. Begin walking, and give the command of ‘walk,’ or ‘let’s go.’ If your dog follows, say ‘good walk,’ if he freezes and refuses to move, drop a few treats in front of him, leash loose, and wait. Never pull or drag your dog, as this may frighten him even more. You can also try to encourage forward movement by touching the dog’s hindquarters, or turn your back to the dog and wait for him to become bored of sitting there. If, on the other hand, your dog runs to the end of the leash and pulls, stop moving. Do not pull back. As soon as the pup realizes that pulling did not work because you are no longer moving forward, get his attention, and motivate him to follow you in another direction. You are much more likely to keep a puppy’s attention by making a game out of following you, and you will have more fun too!

For an older dog that pulls, stopping alone may not work. Remember that the goal is to walk with the leash loose at all times, so you must be very careful not to allow the dog to experience tension from the leash. Arm position is very important; your arm should be relaxed, slightly bent, with your elbow in toward your body. An outstretched arm offers less control. The instant that the leash becomes taught from your dog pulling, straighten your arm to create slack in the leash, and take a step in a different direction. The dog may feel a tug at the leash, but he will recognize that you made a change in direction that he missed. This will encourage your dog to pay careful attention to your body language, and rely less on cues from the leash.

Leash training your dog can be extremely rewarding, and is essential for a safe, well-exercised pet. Your dog will enjoy trips out of the yard, and you will enjoy the ease with which your pet walks along side of you. You may even become the envy of your neighbors as you and your dog take pleasant strolls throughout the neighborhood.

About the Author: David Beart is the owner of www.professorshouse.com. Our site covers dog training, cats, cooking and family issues

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=167578&ca=Pets

Read this article: Leash Training Your Dog

There are certain breeds of dogs that tend to be more aggressive than others. We all have heard stories of pit bulls, chow-chows, and boxers that show aggressive behavior, growling, snarling, and even biting people and other animals. Signs of hostility in a dog include bared teeth, flattened ears, erect tail, stiff legs, and bristling back hair; the dog may growl or bark.

If you see these behaviors, you should keep your arms at your sides and slowly back away, while firmly saying “No.”

Why do certain breeds tend to be aggressive? Let’s look at Boxers as one breed that can behave aggressively under certain circumstances.

Why do Boxers tend to be Aggressive?

Sometimes, Boxers are aggressive just because it is part of the breed’s specific instinctual behavior. It is not learned, but inbred over time.

Boxers also tend to become aggressive when they have not been socialized adequately as puppies. A lack of exposure to “the world,” including other animals and people causes boxers to fear the unknown. They show aggression toward other animals and people because they are unsure and afraid.

Boxers are strong-willed dogs; they have minds of their own and they don’t hesitate to act on their own. Boxers need confident owners who can take charge of the animal, train properly, and maintain control at all times. Be aware that sometimes aggression can be caused by thyroid problems.

Always have your dog checked by a vet when it shows aggression to rule out medical problems.

Understanding Your Boxer

Many Boxers have protective instincts toward their owners when strangers are near. They need extensive exposure to friendly people so they learn to recognize the normal, non-threatening behavior of family members, friends, and neighbors. Then they are able to recognize the differences when someone acts threatening.

Without extensive socialization from an early age, they are suspicious of everyone, which can lead to biting, snarling, growling, and aggressiveness or are so fearful of being harmed that they become aggressive in their own defense.

Many Boxers are dominant or aggressive toward other dogs, especially those of the same sex. Some have strong instincts to chase and kill cats and other animals. If anything goes wrong in the breeding, socializing, training, or care of this breed, it is capable of injuring or killing other animals.

If a Boxer puppy is removed from its mother before seven weeks of age, it will not learn canine social signals such as bite inhibition, which are taught by the mother dog and siblings during this time. The puppy will be “mouthy” and nip, resist being handled, and act aggressively and fearfully toward other animals.

Conversely, if a puppy lives with its mother or siblings for more than 12 weeks, his position in the “pecking order” may be so ingrained that he will always act dominant (if he was at the top) or submissive (if he was at the bottom) toward people or other dogs.

How to Control Aggressive Boxers?

Socializing Boxers

The best way to begin socializing your Boxer is to bring him home at seven or eight weeks of age and get him out into the world daily. Yes, daily is what it takes to establish a strong bond with your dog so that he will trust, respect, and obey you. This is “socializing” your dog, i.e.; getting him used to people, other dogs, other animals, and the world. This has an incredible impact on your dog’s behavior as he grows into adulthood.

It’s also crucial to socialize your adolescent dog, between the ages of six and nine months old to three years old. This is a difficult time of life for dogs; they are changing physically and learning constantly. They must be taught how to behave around people and other animals.

Continuing to socialize your Boxer during adulthood will not change the attitudes your dog has developed as a puppy, but can help to control his behavior so that he doesn’t act afraid or aggressive.

Socializing begins early and continues throughout your Boxer’s life. Take him for rides in the car. Take him to pet stores and other stores that allow dogs. Expose him to other animals at dog parks and as you take walks. Visit friends with him and have friends come to your home. Teach the dog to greet visitors. Use praise, praise, praise and affection constantly to encourage good behavior. Build a strong relationship with your Boxer; you are the leader and as the leader you must be calm, strong, loving, and consistent.

Touching has a powerful emotional effect on many dogs. It is part of the bonding process between the owner and the dog. Your dog must be willing to accept touching so that you can groom him, care for injuries, and put leashes and collars on him. Also, touch will help develop a strong, loving relationship between you, leading to his desire to please you. A daily “touch” session of five minutes or so is invaluable.

Training Boxers

Most puppies are ready to begin obedience lessons at six to eight months of age. The first lessons should be brief, 10 to 15 minutes a day (in addition to socialization activities), and gradually increase to 30 minutes. Training works best with lots of praise and a stern “no” for corrections.

The trainer should always be consistent in reinforcing good behavior and correcting bad behavior and should never strike a dog. Many trainers use a leash and chain-link collar, known as a choke collar. In spite of its name, the collar is never meant to choke a dog, but is used to deliver quick snaps to gain a dog’s attention. This training collar is useful in teaching basic obedience commands, such as sit, stay, heel, come, and down.

You must establish yourself as the leader of the dog’s pack. If you don’t, you will never have your dog under control. You must be strong, calm, firm, and respectful of the dog. Your behavior will determine whether your dog will obey you and respect you. The well-trained dog isn’t ultimately trained by treats, collars, or demands; he is trained by his love and respect for you.

Conclusion

In training Boxers to be non-aggressive, the owner must commit to daily socialization and training sessions for the duration of the dog’s life. The respectful and loving relationship between the Boxer and the owner is the most important factor in the Boxer’s acceptance of and non-aggression toward people and other animals. The owner must be the pack leader – firm, loving, consistent, and in control at all times.

About the Author: Nancy Richards is a dog owner and trainer for more than 10 years. She is also the President of the Dog Training Institute. Read more about Boxers here: http://www.trainpetdog.com/Boxer/about-boxer.html

Source: www.isnare.com

Permanent Link: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=306302&ca=Pets

Read the original post: Aggression In Boxers